Tag Archives: autobiography

Two Inch Heels Part 7 – Rail Pass

Andermatt Switzerland

It was Wednesday October 3 when I awoke in the chilly male bunkroom of the youth hostel in Chur. Ensconced in my toasty down sleeping bag, and not wanting to surrender yesterday by getting up and facing today, my consciousness was still processing the profound events of the past couple days; the tears, the fears, but mostly the joys. By the time I finally exited my cocoon to acknowledge that yes, life goes on, I was the only one left in the bunkroom.

I put on my clothes, and debated trying to wear my hiking boots again.  But since I was doing so well in my heels, and there didn’t seem to be a sign of rain that might mess them up, I’d wear them again instead.  For the third day in a row I decided not to take a cold shower, but at least used a wet slightly soapy washcloth on some key body parts instead.  I entered the main room, and as I figured, my erstwhile travel partner Jack, and my more recent comrades, Jared, Bublil, Peter and particularly Ashild, had already departed.  

I ate my stash of Granola and yogurt, the latter having stayed nicely cool in the minimally heated dormitory room, and pondered the state of my heart and soul.  I thought of Ashild, who with her calm and caring demeanor, her good energy, had made the effort to really connect with me.  She had even asked to, and written thoughtful words in my journal, like she really cared about me and wanted me to remember her.  We had shared moments of real intimacy together, her soft warm rear end on my lap in the backseat of Jared’s car, and walking back from the tavern together.  

It struck me that the connection between us had had a spark of sexual energy to it.  People talked about “sexual tension”, but there was nothing tense about it in our case.  We relaxed and dropped our guard around each other.  We didn’t want to possess or consume the other, just be our true selves with each other.  We got metaphorically naked with each other, if not physically so.  I realized that was how I wanted it to work when someday I got sexually intimate with someone.  I wanted it to be both letting down your guard and taking down your pants.  Not just that rush of shared lust leading to grappling bodies fucking each other before they thought better of it.  And thinking about all my female peers over the years, my best relationships with them all had that spark of sexual energy, of naked intimacy to them.  I was happy to just have that spark.  Some of them figured I must have wanted it to be overtly sexual, and they made the signals they were open to that, and I would freak out and back off and they would be confused and even hurt.  But even the ones that were not available or not really interested in having a sexual relationship, still I would have that spark with them.

The hostel around me seemed transformed by my comrades absence, no longer feeling like my temporary sanctuary, just a place with a sad memory of a brief happy time that no longer was.  It was the same sense of loss I had come to feel after each of the twenty some theater productions I had been involved in over the previous four years.  The connections forged during each production, relationships built around a particular collaborative contribution to that undertaking, would never be quite the same after.  In this case, I would most likely never see these people again.  There was no savoring a moment passed.  I felt compelled to leave, to move forward in search of another opportunity to encounter and connect with others, in the course of this odyssey that I must allow to run its course, exhaust its budget, before I could proudly go home, the triumphant traveler.

I returned to the bunkroom where my red, metal-framed Kelty backpack, my one enduring comrade through all my experience to date, sat propped up at the end of my now former sleeping place.  I sorted and stuffed the various components of my kit into their spaces within the sections and subdivisions of the nylon bag.  My two changes of clothing, toiletries, first aid kit, food, metal combo knife/spoon/fork/bottle & can opener, water bottles, maps and youth hostel guide, rolled up and yet to be used tube tent, poncho, knit cap, sunglasses, journal notebooks, and other stuff.  Since I’d decided to wear my heels, I’d have to hang my hiking boots on the back of my pack.  With my sleeping bag bungeed to the aluminum frame below, it all added up to just over fifty pounds (about 23 kilos if I was thinking like a European).  In my jeans pocket went my “petty cash” bills and coins, my small compass and my latest Swiss Army knife (having lost one already).  The bulk of my money in American Express travelers checks and my crucial documents – passport, rail pass, international student ID card, driver’s license, youth hostel card, list of phone numbers and addresses – fit into the thin nylon money belt that I wore around my waist day and night, only taking it off to take the occasional shower, so for me not for three days since I left Munich.

I thanked the hostel staff for their hospitality, asked for directions out to the main highway, shouldered my heavy pack with my big black boots dangling, and headed out the door and down the now familiar one-way road, where I had weathered my encounter with the police, pondered the abyss of incarceration or worse, and gotten my comrades safely home that previous night, only to say goodbye to them.  A Beatles’ song, as they often did, fired up on my mind’s jukebox, from that amazing sequence of strung together songs and song fragments from their Abbey Road album.  In this case the sequence of “Golden Slumbers/Carry that Weight/The End”, with bits of the evocative lyrics triggered by my situation…

Once there was a way to get back homeward
Once there was a way to get back home
Sleep pretty darling do not cry
and I will sing a lullaby

Boy, you’re going to carry that weight
Carry that weight a long time

Concluding with wisdom that haunted me…

And in the end,
the love you take,
is equal to the love you make

At least I was carrying the non-metaphorical component of that weight downhill at the moment! Maybe three miles total down and through cozy little Chur for one last time and out to the main route south.  On the way I found a store and bought a pair of leather fleece lined gloves, an important logistical milestone.  Hitchhiking… let’s do this!

I waited a long time by the highway outside of town on a chilly but sunny morning.  I was grateful for the sun, particularly on this day that I planned to be hitchhiking and so I did not want it to rain.  The traffic was light, and the cars and trucks that zipped by seemed unfazed by my protruding, thankfully gloved, thumb.  I was truly on my own again, about to “hitchhike across the Alps”, as I had written in my latest postcard to my mom.  Having consulted my now familiar Western Europe map, it was about ten kilometers down this highway from Chur to the south along the Rhine river and then west across the middle of Switzerland through its iconic mountains, to Geneva.  There I figured I could best catch a train back to Munich to try again to hook up with Angelica and Helmut.  My goal for the day was to make it to Geneva, but failing that, at least to Andermatt, a small town just big enough to appear on my map, about halfway between Chur and Geneva.

Since I had started hitchhiking the previous fall, the 100 miles back from college in Kalamazoo Michigan to my hometown in Ann Arbor, all the rides I had gotten were from male types, usually from my age cohort.  This day was the first time that it was a woman who finally pulled over and offered me a ride.  She was dressed casually and probably in her forties.  She spoke some English and after a brief quiet moment as she started down the road again she began to interrogate me with questions in a friendly sort of way.  Feeling alone, though not unhappily so at the moment, I really opened up and spilled out my Europe trip story and eventually highlights of my whole life’s story.  She listened attentively, nodding at all the right places while she kept her eyes on the road, and then began to respond by sharing some of her own story.  

Her name was Genevieve, and she wove her narrative of being married and a mom with four kids all younger than I was.  Her husband was an executive for a big European company and currently out of the country on one of his frequent long business trips.  She definitely was part of that cohort of my aunt Pat’s generation, the cohort of my mentors, which included the head of my YTU theater group Robert and such key voices of my “Greek Chorus” as Paul Simon and John Lennon.  They all spoke to me with what I felt was great insight and wisdom.  

There is something about being alone, especially when you’re a traveler in a foreign place, and encountering someone else who is also alone, at least for your encounter.  If there is a basic trust established and some indication of shared values or worldview, a fairly deep connection can be made fairly quickly.  If I had been traveling with Angie or Jack, or she had been in the car with her husband or kids, neither of us might have been as forthcoming.  It somehow would not have been appropriate to share so deeply with a stranger in front of one’s regular companions, like you were being unfaithful to them somehow.  

It again struck me, it was that little sexual spark at play.  She was married, double my age, but we could still have that little bit of spark between us.  She was one of those people that enjoyed dropping her guard if the person she was with, even a stranger like me, made all the right signals that they respected who she was, would not judge or take advantage of her, and was truly interested to hear her story.  As long as no one explicitly acknowledged that spark, and it was thoughtfully modulated by both of us, then we could get metaphorically naked and conversationally pleasure ourselves in front of and by means of the other.  She would reveal something, I would make a knowing remark acknowledging and appreciating a bit of her metaphorical nakedness, thus a moment of shared intimacy.  Then I would reveal something of myself and let her enjoy and comment, and then I would enjoy her comment but not let the feedback loop get cycling too hot.  In and out we’d go.  No consummation, no final “orgasm”, just stimulating “foreplay”.

She dropped her guard, disrobed her psyche a bit, and said she missed her husband when he was away so much.  I nodded and thought for a moment, properly acknowledging and respecting her revelation.  Only then I would respond, letting down my own guard, getting a bit metaphorically naked, saying that I missed my travel partner Angie.  She would sigh, then a bit boldly inquire if Angie had been my girlfriend.  I would sigh and reveal that she was just a friend, but I had hoped that maybe something would come of our travels together.  She would make a sad face and nod.  It was all verbal and nonverbal cues, it respected boundaries, but it was intimate and had that delicious little spark dancing between us.  Then one of us would break the spell before it got too strong by commenting on say something we saw out the window.  In and out.

Genevieve said she lived close by, and as the hour was now close to noon, she asked if I would like to join her and her kids for lunch at her house.  I was so touched by her offer, her sharing of her life, her house and her table with a traveler, and though it might limit my ability to get across the mountains that day, I felt compelled to accept.  She drove me to her beautiful house in the little village of Reichenau, up on a hill overlooking the coming together of two headwaters of the Rhine river, after which it continued north, spreading into the Bodensee then west forming the border between Switzerland, Germany and France.  

While she worked on getting food ready in the kitchen, I sat at their dining room table with her four kids, a teenage daughter and her three younger brothers.  The daughter and her oldest brother, who had both learned a fair amount of English, engaged me in conversation, curious like their mom about what brought me to travel through Europe and what it was like where I lived in the States.  Her younger brothers listened and did their best to cobble together a question or two in my language as well, like how heavy my backpack was.  I tried to answer all their questions enthusiastically with simple words that they might understand.  The lasagna Genevieve served was delicious, and I ate it feeling like an honorary, if temporary, member of the family.

After eating and continued conversation, she offered and took me farther down the road west to the nearby town of Llanz, where she felt I would have better luck catching a ride west across the mountains.  In just a short span of several hours I had bonded with her and her kids so much that I was already feeling that sense of loss again.  But I was beginning to feel a certain level of growing confidence that the universe would somehow provide for me.  I just needed to put out my thumb and be patient.

It was a long wait until a young Swiss guy pulled over and offered me a ride a few more kilometers up the road to the next little town.  Not much of a lift, and possibly problematic if I got stuck somewhere when it got dark without accessible inexpensive lodging.  But the hitchhiker’s etiquette is not to refuse a ride, any ride, so I accepted with as much gratefulness as I could muster.  After he dropped me off, another long wait there, and I was beginning to worry about losing my light before getting somewhere I could find a place to stay.  But I was finally picked up by a middle-aged American woman and her young adult daughter driving to Andermatt, about 60 kilometers down the road.  I did not have a watch, but given that it was late afternoon, and the sun went down earlier behind the mountains, I quickly decided and announced to them that that was my destination for the day as well.  They shared with me that the daughter had been living in Berlin and her mom had flown over from Seattle to join her and now travel around together.

As we approached Andermatt from the east, the two-lane highway became a series of switchbacks winding up into a high mountain pass with the little town in the valley on the other side.  It was a ski resort town with a population of maybe 1500 but also 1000 beds for guests in little hotels, zimmers and pensions, with this being the off season.  I noted it actually had a train station, and since my rail pass was good starting the next morning, I figured I might not need to spend another day hitchhiking.

The three of us easily found a reasonably priced “zimmer”, a German word for room or chamber and generally a private house with bedrooms to rent for the night, the two of them in one and I in my own.  We decided to share an impromptu dinner together with the cold meat they were carrying plus a loaf of bread I bought at a small bakery in town.  We sat in our host’s main room, talking about our lives and our travels late into the evening, again the universe providing me with an opportunity for conversation and camaraderie which I seized for all it was worth.  It was after midnight before we said goodnight and retired to our rooms.

Mine was a cozy little bedroom with a view of the mountains between the adjacent buildings.  The bed had what looked like a huge floppy feather pillow that covered the whole bed, and was in fact a thick comforter used to cover you and keep you warm.  It was a cold night and I was happy to snuggle myself under it, and rather than being consumed by loneliness, I felt instead the bounty of the universe that I had sensed earlier.

In the morning I said goodbye to mom and daughter, wished them well on their journeys, and very theatrically hoisted my heavy backpack on my back, again playing the self-sufficient and unflappable world traveler, for their consumption at least.  If I could not yet truly be that person I wanted to be, at least I could pretend for others who I left behind and would have no further opportunity to divine the real truth.  One final too casual wave of the hand and I set off for the train station just across town.  I was eager actually, to try out my rail pass and find my way back to Munich to hopefully now hook up with Angelica and Helmut.  Having learned by now not to buy the pricey food in train stations, I bought my new favorite breakfast of yogurt and granola in a little grocery store and ate it in the cute little pocket station waiting for the train.  

I quickly learned how totally cool my rail pass was.  I did not have to wait in any ticket lines or get a ticket at all, but could simply board any train, and show my pass to the conductor when he came by asking for tickets.  As long as I wasn’t sitting in a first class compartment I was good to go.  For the next two months all the trains of Western Europe would be at my unlimited disposal.  It felt like I suddenly had this great power bestowed on me to go anywhere I wanted, except home of course.  Between hitching and the pass, I figured I could get just about anywhere at no additional cost, ever concerned as I was about my budget!

Based on the schedule board at the Andermatt station, the next train due in that morning was headed north to Zurich.  From there I figured I would find a train to Munich.  Like most of the train rides I took throughout Switzerland it was a picturesque ramble around and occasionally through mountains, across deep gorge spanning bridges, and through high alpine or lower elevation river valleys.  Three hours later I stepped off the train in the much bigger Zurich station.

Liberated from the ticket lines by my pass, I had also liberated myself from encountering the occasional helpful ticket agent who perhaps spoke enough English to help me navigate the extensive and complicated European rail network.  So instead of waiting in often long lines to maybe get (though possibly not) an agent that spoke some English, I did my best to read the train “Abfahrt” (departure) board and consult the rail network map I had brought with me along with a perhaps more detailed rail network map I found posted on the station wall.  I loved the way the electro-mechanical board would reset itself every couple minutes, all the character positions in each row spinning and clicking through all the possible numbers and letters like slot machines and finally constructing character by character a new destination, departure or arrival time.  Based on the various information displays I consulted, it looked like there was a train leaving shortly headed east to Innsbruck Austria and from their change to Munich.  Lacking any additional consultation with perhaps a helpful human, I jauntily found and boarded my train.

What I was yet to learn about European trains was the fact that in many of the larger long-haul trains certain cars in the train, most Europeans that spoke English called them “coaches”, went to a particular city but others did not.  In major stations, coaches would at times be detached from train A and attached to train B to get to destination C.  You might be on a train going to Innsbruck, but the coach you were on was going to a different destination.  An on the ball conductor would make the effort of notifying riders, based on their destination, what coaches they should be on.  But me with my rail pass, rather than a ticket with an explicit destination, sometimes the conductors would not ask my destination or I would forget to share it with them.  I learned this the hard way some six hours after departing Zurich when the coach I was on did not pull out of a station stop with the rest of the train to Innsbruck.  Ironically I ended up back in Chur where I had been two days before.

Now into the evening, I found a train leaving in an hour or so north to Lindau just over the border of Germany.  From there it looked like there was a direct train to Munich.  I exited the station to make my grocery run.  It felt weird to be briefly back in Chur where I had just made such memories of connecting with fellow travelers and navigating my traumatic encounter with the local police.  But soon I was on my train again, headed north along the Rhine river valley back towards Germany.

When I finally debarked from my train in Lindau, a quick look at the “Abfahrt” board told me it was now 8pm and the next train to Munich was not until 9am the next morning!  There was no youth hostel in town and I was tired from my long day of riding the rails and the thought of spending the night in the train station did not appeal to me in the least.  But what I did notice was there was still the counterpart train coming from Munich to Bern stopping here in Lindau shortly. With my pass, thus ticket cost not a factor, I could ride that train to Bern, and then back through Lindau in the morning and on to Munich.  Better to overnight on a moving train than in a dreary train station!  I would later learn from some of my fellow travelers with rail passes, that this was a standard trick when all else failed.  Using long back and forth train rides as an impromptu overnight lodging of sorts.  With luck, finding any empty bench in a compartment with a place to stretch out and sleep if you were lucky enough to find one, or at worst a single seat to close your eyes and maybe semi-sleep sitting up.  So after crossing Switzerland’s mountains, through mountain tunnels, across gorge spanning bridges and through its valleys all day, I was going to do it again, twice even, until I would pass back through Lindau tomorrow morning around 9am on my way finally to Munich.  

Before my train to Bern departed, I called Angelica and Helmut’s number, and was so gratified to hear Angelica’s voice answer on the other end.  Her English was somewhat limited and it was a confused conversation.  I managed to explain to her my situation and that I should be on the train from Bern tomorrow getting into Munich after lunch.  She managed to convey that she and Helmut would pick me up at the train station when I got in before my phone ran out of money and cut me off.

Now dog tired and thoroughly frazzled, I boarded the first leg of my overnight train odyssey/lodging.  Unfortunately for my plan, the train was fairly crowded. It had originated in Munich and had accumulated a lot of passengers by the time it got to Lindau.  So as I walked the narrow hallway along the second class compartments looking for one with untaken seats to maybe sleep in, I found none.  In the process I did encounter some other American guys my age, also with their backpacks, also headed for Bern.  I joined them in their compartment, the four of them and I and all our big frame packs, our long hair, and our instant camaraderie as fellow “freak flag” backpackers.  

As our train snaked its way through the now dark mountainous country outside the train window, we talked for an hour or two, talking “shop” mostly, about all the aspects of backpacker travel through these realms.  Hitchhiking, riding trains, hostels, cheap food and activities, and so on.  I learned from them that there were big boats you could ride up and down the Rhine and Moselle rivers between Mainz, Coblenz and Trier, for not much money.  Finally, the rush of adrenaline from sharing with members of my cohort having subsided, I  mostly dozed off until we got to Bern.  

When we got off in Bern we had several hours to kill before our respective departing trains, including mine back the way we came and on to Munich.  We decided to go down into the lower level of the big Bern station and look for a place to rest for the interval, and found an obvious area in the corner where others were doing the same.  It was a mix of young backpackers like us, some middle aged European men, and a few older men, who for lack of a shave, looked like they might be homeless.

We got to know one of the homeless guys, Karl, who had pursued us at first asking if we needed help finding a place to sleep or something to eat.  We shared with him our situation and some of the remnants of food we had in our various packs, as we sat on the rubber mat floor and joked about our “accommodations”.  He asked us If we wanted beer, and we all acknowledged that that would be wonderful, but of course figured it was impossible at two in the morning.  Karl said he would get us some and he took off and said he would return soon.  We looked at each other and laughed at the thought that this “bum” was going to find and be able to purchase beer in the middle of the night and then share it with us!

But a half hour later we all went crazy when he reappeared carrying a bag full of six or seven bottles of beer.  I noted to myself at least that it was sad that it took all that to get us to really be friendly with him, all of us kind of shining him on because we judged him to be homeless.  Sharing the beers got us going, and the conversation with Karl and us backpacker types ranged on all subjects for the next couple hours.

First it was music, a topic on which everyone had a lot to say, but no consensus was found.  He shared with us the American singers he liked: Frank Sinatra, Ray Charles, some women singers we had never heard of, and which he was shocked we hadn’t.  We shared with him the iconic musicians from our own generation’s musical pantheon, including The Beatles, Simon & Garfunkel, Stevie Wonder, etc.  He kind of grudgingly acknowledged our preferences, as if he thought we were slaves to the current fashion, rather rather than real music lovers.

Then we talked politics.  Looking at all our white WASPy faces perhaps, he shared with us that a big problem with the world, still today, was the Jews.  He thought that Hitler had been the only leader bold enough to have the real answer.  We were shocked and stunned into silence, casting furtive looks at each other as if to say, “Oh my god this guy is a Nazi!”

Noting our body language and non-verbalized recoil, he tried his best to recover by lauding Americans as some sort of saviors of the world.  He noted with irony that we won World War II only to lose the post-war world by not having Patton invade Eastern Europe before the Russians did so.  He loved Patton and was pleased when I said my dad served in his army during the last year of the war.  He also said categorically that he felt there was no hope for the world, no hope for “good people”, putting himself and us in that category.

Too chicken given the circumstances, and given the basic protocol of not offending one’s “host” (who provided the free beer), I did scramble up the courage to say emphatically that I did feel there was hope for the world, that our generation was profoundly different than our parents and we had a vision to change things once we were in power.  He smiled and said that I was saying that only because I was still young.  The discussion went back and forth for more than an hour, with my comrades finally joining in to try to help me defend this idealistic position as best we could.  Even though I figured we were not going to change his rooted mind, I wanted him to at least know there were some people out there who had not given up and were fighting for hope and change and a better world.  People who were not secretly on Hitler’s side.  Then finally the announcement on the public address that the train to Munich was boarding.

Now wielding my laminated plastic card that told any conductor in Western Europe that I could ride their train for no additional charge, I was quickly learning the axioms of “rail travel 101”.  One was of course, don’t buy food in train stations or on the train, it could cost at least twice as much as buying it at a store outside the station.  This of course took some planning ahead, but hey, that’s what you do to stick to the six dollar a day budget.  Another, on display here in Bern, was that if you boarded a train at its start point, particularly if there wasn’t a crush of passengers, you could have your pick of seats.  In this case I could lay claim to an entire bench seat for sleeping, at least until newly boarding passengers came into my compartment and cajoled or shamed me into surrendering two of the three seats I was “bogarting”, to use the dope smoking lingo, which many of us hippiesque backpacker types used.  Yet another was to tell the conductor what your destination was, so he could assist you with not ending up on a train car that would be switched onto another train and not end up at that destination.

Following that last axiom paid off in this case.  When the conductor came by asking for tickets and I showed him my rail pass, I told him I was riding the train through to Munich.  Good thing, because after that encounter, a big noisy family had decided to share my compartment. I had moved to another coach where I found a compartment with a free bench seat so I could continue to sleep horizontally, rather than struggle to sleep vertically, which had been the whole point of taking this long back and forth overnight journey in the first place.  

I was way past tired now, but our disturbing conversation with Karl the recalcitrant Nazi had my mind percolating.  I pondered war and peace and the world situation going forward, particularly the brewing troubles in the Middle East, and whether I and my generational comrades could really make any difference.  Were my own radical ideas simply the naive posturing of some sort of dilettante overgrown kid?  Was there really hope for the world?  I decided I was going to keep behaving as if the latter were the case!

In a light sleep when the train finally got into Lindau the conductor was on the ball enough, as well as nice enough, to wake me and give me a heads up I was in a coach that would not be going on to Munich.  I thanked him profusely, shouldered my pack and staggered sleepily forward to a train car that was headed to my destination, though not finding a compartment empty enough where I could stretch out.  Sitting in an upright position sharing that side of the compartment with someone else, I managed to go back into a half sleep until finally the light of the new day illuminated the coach, and the picturesque Bavarian countryside we were traversing beckoned my mind to open still tired eyes and peer out.  

Though technically awake, eyes open and looking out at the weekday world going by, it was still a jolt into full consciousness when the conductor rattled open the compartment door to announce “Munchen!”  When I finally staggered off the train, I had spent most of the last thirty hours crisscrossing Switzerland by rail.  On the platform, I noticed a short perky woman smiling and waving at me next to a taller and more reserved, but also smiling man.  Their faces clicked with my memory of three years ago, it was Angelica and Helmut.  I gave them a sort of subdued wave back and walked towards them and did my best to smile, in my current trance state certainly happy to not be on my own for at least the next few days.

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Two Inch Heels Part 6 – Chur

It was Friday morning September 28. As we had agreed, my new travel companion Jack and I left Munich, Oktoberfest, and our army brat hosts, and hitchhiked south. Our plan was to travel together for a week in Switzerland and then return to Munich, hopefully for me to finally hook up with Angelica and Helmet.

Knowing that we’d probably be doing a lot of walking, and the blisters on my feet were still healing, I wore my two-inch heels, and hung my hiking boots from the top of my pack frame. Despite those blisters, I had done fine walking about Oktoberfest in Munich in my heels, and my feet hardly hurt at all.

This was my first time actually trying to hitchhike in Europe. I had cut my teeth on this means of transportation the previous year, in the States, for the 100 mile journey home from school in Kalamazoo to Ann Arbor. It had worked out pretty well and seemed a fairly dependable way to get home, particularly if there was basically only one highway to traverse to get to the destination, and it usually ended up taking about the same amount of time as taking the bus or the train, and certainly the price the right. Several times one of my rides was another young student type like me, who offered up all or part of a joint to smoke together.

But here and now leaving Munich, rides came slowly, maybe half an hour to an hour wait before someone pulled over, a lot more waiting with your thumb out than I was used to back home. But the weather was pleasant and Jack and I enjoyed talking about our time in Munich and travel plans going forward.

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Two Inch Heels Part 2 – England

[This is part of a rewrite in August 2021]

It was late afternoon Monday September 17 when Angie’s mom drove Angie and me, and our big full backpacks, the thirty some miles to Metropolitan Airport outside Detroit. I felt an unnatural calm, akin to the reverse stage fright I would get before going out on stage in a theatrical performance. I was once again throwing myself in the deep end of the metaphorical pool of life experience. Like when I first decided three years earlier to perform on stage, particularly my first big lead part singing and dancing in the musical Oklahoma. It was how shy, reticent me conducted my development, resisting and procrastinating until the fear of being a total chickenshit overwhelmed the fear of the leap into the deep end of the pool.

If Angie was having any second thoughts about our trip at this point, I did not notice. I was so deep within myself. She was quiet as well, sitting next to me in the backseat, probably going through her own version of something like a pre stage performance ritual. Her mom seemed uncomfortable with our silence and kept trying to make conversation. All she got were short answers from both of us.

Somewhat surprising to me, Angie’s mom shared with us her plans to fly to London with Angie’s dad on September 27th, and from there head up to northern England and Scotland to see extended family. Angie had not said anything about that to me and the timing seemed weird, but I filed it away and went back to my own self focus.

We saw the sign that the exit to the airport was just three miles ahead.

“Okay you two”, her mom said, glancing back at us in the backseat together, “Your parental types are counting on both of you to be smart and be safe, always look after each other, buddy system. But most of all, have a great adventure together.”

Angie rolled her eyes and wrinkled her nose and scoffed. “Yeah mom, thanks for the pep talk. We’ll write when we find work.”

I chuckled. I loved watching Angie in action. Her facial expressions, and her pithy comments delivered with good comic timing. Lane would always say to Angie, “You’re such a PIP!” And I guess it was true. I’m not exactly sure what a “pip” was, but whatever it was, Angie was probably that. I was so looking forward to doing this “European Tour” with her.

Ours was an overnight flight from Detroit to London Heathrow. We checked our packs as baggage. At the gate, I was surprised when Angie’s mom gave me a goodbye hug before giving a longer one to her daughter.

“You two take care of yourselves now”, she said to both of us. Then focusing on Angie. “And young lady, you call me if anything comes up!”

“Yeah mom”, Angie said, wrinkling that nose again, “I’ll call you before I call Interpol”.

Angie and I found our seats in the crowded 747, in the very middle of the row between the two aisles, with people seated on either side of us already. Neither of us had ever been on one of these giant new “Jumbo Jets” before.

“Jeez”, she said, “This thing actually flies? It looks more like the house of a theater than something that can actually leave the ground!”

As we sidled past the person sitting on the aisle seat, she eyed our two seats and looked back at me.

“Guess I’m…”, and then she sang, “Stuck in the middle with you.”

“Ha ha”, I responded, always happy to play her sidekick and/or peanut gallery. “Good one!”

She plopped down in her seat with a sigh. I followed suit. She looked straight ahead, puffed out her cheeks then blew air out of her mouth, opened her round blue eyes wide and turned her gaze to me.

“Dang”, she said, “Are we really doing this?”

“Didn’t you read the program?” I responded, trying to get in on the witty retorts, “Act 1 Scene 1… main cabin of a BOAC 747 from Detroit to London.”

She got quiet for a moment as she looked up at the ceiling and blew more air out of puffed cheeks. “On with the show”, she said, then she turned and looked at me, and dropped her hand on mine on the armrest. I felt the electricity of her touch. We had never done anything like that before. We were “just friends” as they would say. Not that deep down I wasn’t hoping that during this trip we couldn’t become more, since it was just us two and no Lane. Needless to say, Angie had my attention.

She gave me her guilty little kid look with those rosy cheeks below the strawberry blond curls. “If forced to be kinda honest here”, she put her far hand behind her back and pretended someone was twisting it to make her talk, “I’m a little out of my depth right now. I mean, I went away to various overnight camps for a week as a kid, and Lane and I went to Chicago that one time together. But THIS. This is a quantum leap.”

“Oh wow”, I said, nodding, and trying to think what to say in response so she felt it would be okay.

She patted my hand. “So I’m counting on you Coop to take the lead. Be my ‘Lane’ as it were. I mean you’re the man of the world here. Went to England for the summer.”

“With my mom and brother”, I noted.

“Still counts”, she replied, continuing to pat my hand.

“Went to the Soviet freakin’ Union”, she continued, “Excuse my almost French!” And then as a quieter aside, “I guess we’ll find out if French people really swear all the time!”

“With my classmates”, I noted.

“Still counts”, she repeated, then continuing, “Year in college already. Smoked weed. Drank to excess. HITCHHIKED for cryin’ out loud. I ain’t done none of that stuff!”

“Yeah, okay”, I chuckled, “Fair enough. We’ll figure it out together. It’ll be great!”

She nodded, and parotted me, “It’ll be great.”

The plane took off and once we were up at cruising altitude they served drinks and dinner. We both got the Chicken Kiev. Angie suggested that we both buy a glass of champagne, for a “proper toast”, and the flight attendant filled our little clear plastic cups from small bottles of Moet and Chandon. It cost a pound ($2.40 US) for the two.

She raised her cup. “To the man of the world and his cute but surprisingly wily sidekick and travel grasshopper”, she said, that last reference, referring I assume to that new TV show, “Kung Fu”.

I laughed, and a feeling of excitement went through me that maybe Angie and I would become a couple after all. I would check at least two of the boxes. Seasoned traveler AND real girlfriend. Maybe that second would lead to the third, “virginity lost”. I just had to get her through the first week or so so she could get her “travel legs”.

After finishing dinner and the champagne, in my new casting as “man of the world/tour guide”, I suggested that we try to get some sleep, so we might be fresh for tomorrow morning when we got to London. We both tried to sleep but neither one of us managed.

We got to our destination in the late morning local time, both of us pretty bleary. Heathrow was a maze of hallways, corridors and stairways, including moving walkways I had never seen before which I noted in my journal as “horizontal escalators”. The airport officials checking our passports were brusque and even snotty, but in the end let us and our backpacks into the country. After asking four people for directions and some wrong turns, we finally ended up on the bus to the London subway station closest to the airport.

The bus traveled through oldish residential areas to the suburban London town of Hounslow, letting us off in front of the West Hounslow Underground Station. We took the District subway line to Earls Court, for a fare of 15 pence each. Recalling riding the London subways three years earlier, when I spent the summer in England with my mom and brother, I noted that ticket prices had doubled since I was last there. We had read the book Europe on $5 a Day, and based on that, our goal was six dollars a day, realistic or not. So I was immediately thinking about money and the cost of things, particularly transportation. Our two-month student rail passes had cost $150 each, but they didn’t start until October 1, and even then would not cover bus or subway fare.

The youth hostel we had headed for turned out to be full, and it was getting into the afternoon, and we both had been running on adrenaline and could barely keep our eyes open. We looked up another hostel in our guide, thought to call them first, and they were full as well. Outside that first hostel we encountered two Americans, the first two since our arrival, who happened to be from Ypsilanti of all places, the town just east of Ann Arbor where my dad used to teach. They told us of a hostel two blocks down the road from where we were. So we went there and were able to get in. The man in charge was about 40 years old, talkative, friendly, a little uptight and pushy though. We said we might stay one or two nights, so he had us give him two pounds each, and said he would refund us one pound each if we only stayed one night. We weren’t in any shape to argue.

The place was one in a series of row houses, with a basement, ground and second floor, plus attic. Angie’s bed was in one of the female rooms on the second floor while mine was with three other guys in the basement. The place was rundown, with peeling paint, yellowing tile, and sort of makeshift beds. The room I was in had clothing and other personal items from the three other guys scattered all over it. It was about 2pm and Angie decided to go upstairs and take a nap.

I sat downstairs trying to pull myself together. I felt kind of scared and rattled by what we had been through earlier at Heathrow. I realized that getting anywhere by cheap transportation would always be a hassle, even here in England where we spoke the language! Every day we were going to have the same struggle, particularly in a big urban environment like London. Getting out of this big city seemed very appealing to me then, and I thought that we ought to get ourselves to Oxford the next morning and escape the dingy hostel, and the big confusing city.

With the sun now just below the horizon and Angie still upstairs, I got another rush of adrenaline and decided to walk around the neighborhood a bit. The manager of the hostel gave me directions to the post office, and I figured I would pick up a postcard or something to write home to my mom. The post office was right across the street from the Earl’s Court Underground station. As I walked along I noticed all sorts of people on the streets. Men wearing ties and maybe even sport coats coming out of the subway station coming home from work, some looking a bit worse for wear. Other men in overalls or work shirts perhaps coming off work as well, seeming a jollier lot. Mothers with their young children. Young women walking in pairs or threesomes. Old women walking alone. I saw a couple other obvious Americans of our cohort with their backpacks and scraggly hair. Also some Asians who were obvious tourists, which I had noticed at the airport as well. It was a very different bunch of people than I would typically encounter in my American Midwest college town.

At the little store I couldn’t find decent postcards so I bought an aerogramme at the post office instead. They were cheaper too, just 6 pence including the postage. I also stopped at a small food store and after much pondering and consternation bought a can of Campbell’s “Scotch Broth” for 10 pence. I felt like I was copping out, but this was the only food that was both appealing and the Campbell brand reliably familiar. I wasn’t ready to experiment with British convenience food quite yet. I WAS willing to go for a couple familiar British candy bars at the Underground station and headed back. I quickly ate the candy bars, but decided to stow the soup away because I didn’t really have any way to heat it up. I sat down and wrote my aerogramme to my mom and brother. I wrote about my sense of overwhelm.

A bit later Angie reappeared from upstairs. I was relieved to note that though she still had bags under her eyes, she seemed relaxed and in the moment, and said that she had taken a nap and was a bit refreshed. So we both walked back over to the post office. She bought three aerogrammes and I got one more. We found a little fast food place and stopped and ate their fish and chips and discussed our plans for the next day, things we had wanted to see in London. There was not much enthusiasm about any of the items on our list – the changing of the guard, Westminster Abbey, Hyde Park, the British Museum. Angie then mentioned that one of her roommates said that she thought the room had bed bugs, the kind that crawl into your sleeping bags, suck your blood and breed in your bedding. We were definitely not getting off to a great start! I could feel my own deep fatigue from little or no sleep, and concern that Angie might be relying on me initially to navigate us through all this.

To do damage control, I suggested that we leave London in the morning for Oxford to hopefully hook up with the Clay family, who my mom, brother and I had lived next to that summer in England three years ago. We could circle back to London after making our other stops in the country before heading on to the Continent. Angie agreed, seeming somewhat relieved that we weren’t going to stay in London another day, and we decided to head back to the hostel and make a very early night of it. Because of that thing about bedbugs, pests I had heard about but never had to deal with before, I didn’t open up my sleeping bag. I slept in my clothes on my bed’s mattress with just the mattress pad on it. I was so tired I pretty much passed out and slept through the night, despite the “field conditions”.

The next morning, after sleeping in, Angie and I found our way to the bus station and onto a bus to Oxford. We both felt good to be leaving the big city and driving through the English countryside on a warm sunny day. There had been a radio on last night in the room I slept in and the station had played Ron Argent’s song, “Hold Your Head Up”. So this next morning, all during our bus ride, its opening organ riff and lyrics were repeating in my mind’s jukebox…

And if it’s bad
Don’t let it get you down, you can take it
And if it hurts
Don’t let them see you cry, you can make it

Hold your head up
Hold your head high

My Greek chorus, even several thousand miles away from home, was speaking to me and giving me a mantra to get through this. During the bus ride I tried my best to play tour guide, and refresh Angie on our invitation to stay with the Clays. That they were the family who had been our nextdoor neighbors in the little village of Horspath just outside Oxford, when my mom, my brother and I had lived there for the summer three years ago. I played up how nice the Clay’s were, hoping that would still be the case. Plus hoping that even though I had not thought to call ahead from London, that they would be home and able to accommodate us, at least for a couple nights.

“Sounds good”, said Angie, “I couldn’t take another night in that fleabag flophouse we slept in. Was that a real youth hostel?”

“Not sure”, I replied, “But it certainly wasn’t in our youth hostel guide, so maybe there’s still hope for cheap lodging going forward.”

“Eww”, she said, doing an exaggerated shiver, “That place was practically Dickensian!”

“Yeah”, I said laughing, trying to make light of our failed first night, “All it lacked was Mr. Bumble threatening to feed us ‘cockroaches served in a canister’”.

“I might prefer cockroaches to bedbugs”, she noted, “At least you can see the little critters coming!”

When we got to the Oxford bus station, it turned out that the bus to Horspath did not leave for some three hours! Remembering my greater Oxford area geography, plus armed with a city map from the visitors display, we finally figured out we could take another bus at least to the Cowley roundabout, which was just about three or four miles from our destination. Never much of a planner, it finally hit me that I better call the Clays sooner rather than later. If I couldn’t reach them by phone there would need to be some sort of “plan B”. To my great relief Madge Clay answered the phone, and said she was thrilled we had really made it, and she’d love to have us as “honored guests” for a few nights, or however long we needed to get our bearings. She said that Bill’s shift at the “plant” ended in an hour, and then he could drive into town to pick us up. I told her we could at least catch a bus to the Cowley roundabout. She said that was even better and he’d meet us there.

Bill was soon there in his new VW, full of his good friendly energy, very glad to see us. My brother and I had befriended their kids, Kevin, who was my age, and his younger sister Kate, who was about my brother’s. Bill cheerily filled Angie and I in on his family’s goings on. He said Kevin was in trade school studying to be an auto mechanic and now working part time at a gas station, and Kate was into the whole teenage thing going to the little high school in Horspath that Kevin was going to back when we lived there.

When we got to their house, the neighborhood looked unchanged from how I remembered it, with the five hundred year old manor farmhouse across the street and the thousand year old church behind their backyard. The couple next door to the Clays, the Cane’s, who my mom had traded houses with, had since sold their house and moved to Colchester, and Angie and I would hopefully visit them too before the end of our journey. Madge’s mom had had a lot of health issues since I was last there, and was now confined to a wheelchair, seeming unlike three years ago, very bossy and impatient. Madge seemed thrilled to see us and gave both me and Angie big hugs, and I was so hoping my travel companion would have the chance to relax and get her bearings after the awful first night in that fleabag hostel.

Madge and Kevin agreed that Angie would sleep in his room, and he and I would sleep on the living room floor in our sleeping bags. Kevin went right back to where he and I had been three years ago, like we were still neighbors who saw each other most every day, and was excited to show Angie and me the new motor scooter he had bought. She and I were still a bit on overwhelm, so after eating supper with the five of them, all squeezed around their dining table, we made an early night of it. As all others retired to their rooms, Kevin and I lay on the living room floor in our sleeping bags and he continued to regale me with the highlights of the last three years of his life, and quizzed me for details about my own. I could barely keep my eyes open, but I felt it would be rude not to listen to his stories and answer his questions. Plus it just felt good to be around people I knew, sleeping in a place that was not completely strange to me.

The next morning the five of them were up early, Madge fixing breakfast for all. Since Kevin and I had slept in the living room in full view of the kitchen, it felt weird for me not to get up once they were all gathered at the table. Kate with her books, dressed in her school uniform, ready for her short walk to school. Kevin in his overalls to head off on his scooter to his automotive classes. And Bill in his work shirt headed out in the new VW off to work at the factory. I did not want them to feel they had to keep talking quietly on my account, so I got up, and Madge suggested I come and eat to give the hot water in the water heater a chance to recover before I tried to take a shower. There was no sign of Angie, cloistered off behind the door to Steve’s room, and we all agreed we should let her sleep.

Kate, Kevin and Bill all quickly ate their scrambled eggs, toast and “bangers”, that is sausages, Kate first to excuse herself to head off to school. Kevin and Bill were next, but before they left Kevin suggested that they should take Angie and I to the village pub when they returned from their day.

After the three had headed off and I finished my plate, I took a shower. When I finally came out, all clean and refreshed in fresh clothes, Angie was sitting at the table eating with Madge and her mom. I was happy to see that my travel partner seemed reinvigorated, and was happily answering Madge’s questions on where she lived, her family, and how she and I knew each other through our theater group. I took a seat at the table and listened, trying not to disturb the nexus of the three women connecting with each other. Madge changed her questioning to the future.

“So where are you two headed on your journey? Your mum’s letter said ‘England and all over the Continent’.” She directed the question to both of us, but returned her gaze to Angie, who she seemed quite taken with.

“Well…” Angie said brightly, then stopped abruptly. She looked at me, like somehow I could better answer that question. It was not like she hadn’t contributed to deciding on our itinerary, particularly Paris, Rome, Amsterdam, and especially Vienna with its history of opera and theater. Maybe she was just giving me the chance to join the conversation.

So I rattled off the list of destinations, and Madge made appreciative oohs and aahs and other noises.

“I’m so jealous”, she noted, her lips forming a pout. “I have grown up with all that just across the Channel, but I’ve never been, except to holiday once in Portugal after Bill and I got hitched.” She looked off out the kitchen window. “I’ve always wanted to go to Paris, but life just caught up with me.”

Madge’s mom mumbled some words that I couldn’t make out. Madge chuckled and shook her head, laying her own hand on her mom’s quivering hand.

Still holding her mom’s hand, Madge looked at us again. “So you two are going to be living out of those packs the whole time? What did your mum say in her letter, ten weeks? One thing for a lad perhaps, but for a lass?” She looked at Angie and shook her head. “You’re more of an adventurer than I am dear. I think I’d trade it all for a big trunk full of my clothes and two weeks at a nice little hotel in Paris.”

Angie laughed but it seemed a bit forced to me.

Once Madge had finished her friendly interrogation, Angie and I were happy just to sit and drink hot tea with milk and sugar and listen to Madge fill us in on the major milestones in their household since I had been there three years ago. Her mom’s worsening health and confinement to a wheelchair. Her daughter Kate’s emergence as a “teenybopper”. Kevin’s acquisitions; scooter, job, apprenticeship, and now a girlfriend. Bill’s new “bug” and continuing job at the Morris plant that paid the bills. Her own volunteer work at the church.

Before Madge could even ask, I told her about my brother, how he was still doing his art, and also theater like Angie and me. I told her how my mom had gotten involved in local politics and the women’s movement. She laughed and said that that made perfect sense to her, remembering my mom’s gregariousness and strong views from back then.

Madge suggested that I take Angie on the bus into Oxford to show her around. She said that it was much busier now in the fall, with all the students back, than it was in the summer when I was here before. Angie thought that was a good plan, so we headed out, with a small bag of cheese sandwiches Madge packed us for lunch, along with a map of the campus. Remembering the geography pretty well from three years ago, I played tour guide and showed Angie around the storied university with all its different cloistered colleges. Since both of us had grown up in a college town, it felt not too strange to wander among the brick and stone buildings in the midst of a crowd of students.

Letting me play tour guide, Angie commented about this and that with glimpses of her patented wit and bright effervescence. Still she seemed not fully present somehow. We were both actors of course, playing characters on stage with energy and verve that were different from who we really were, she was probably more skilled at the craft than me.

“So you still feeling jet lagged?” I asked.

She rolled her big blue eyes in that endearing way she could, a “take” she often used on stage to great comic effect. She nodded and grimaced. “I still feel like a fish out of water”, she said.

I figured, maybe “hoped” is a better word, that another good night’s sleep at the Clay’s would make a big difference.

This time we managed to get the bus back to Horspath in a timely fashion and I took Angie for a walking tour of the village. First we stopped at the little store across from the bus stop and I treated her to a “Cornish”, a plain but delicious vanilla ice cream bar with wafers on both sides. She ate it lustily which I took to be a good sign. We took the road up the other side of the village past the stone building that was the village pub, past the runty little thousand year old church, and the village’s jarringly modern looking secondary school for kids 11 to 18. We then continued on the road up the hill to the Shotover ridge just above the village. It was still as I remembered it, with fields of waist high bracken. We waded through the ferns as I told her the tale that Kevin had told me three years ago. How in medieval times the “horse path” from London to Oxford went right along this ridge, and outlaws used to hide in the trees and bracken and waylay rich travelers and rob them. Farther along the ridge we waded out of the sea of ferns and down through the cow pasture of the still operational manor farm across the road from the Clay’s house. Unlike me, Angie had no sense of where we were.

“So Coop, I feel like we’re completely lost!” she said.

“You know”, I responded, feigning concern, “You may be right”, playing along with her concern though I knew exactly where we were. “Let’s try going this way.”

We walked a hundred feet to the left through a line of trees and over a waist high split rail fence and suddenly we were across the street from the Clay’s house.

“You little shit”, she said, giving me a playful punch in the shoulder. That punch felt so good in the moment, intimate in its way, maybe suggesting the possibility of more physical intimacy to come, at least that was my fantasy. At the very least, it seemed like an indication that she might be more relaxed and genuine, and maybe getting those “travel legs”. Other than putting her hand on mine briefly to get my attention on the plane, or our shoulders maybe rubbing when we sat next to each other on the bus, I think it was the only time we had physically touched each other since we had left Ann Arbor. Not that we had the kind of relationship back home where we would have the occasion to touch each other, except maybe getting the other’s attention by laying a hand on their shoulder to point something out or deliver a witty retort. We weren’t boyfriend and girlfriend after all, just friends. And we weren’t even best friends like she and Lane. I remembered sometimes how Lane would tossle Angie’s frizzy hair and scowl at her with mock anger, before breaking out into a hearty belly laugh. Or how Angie would wiggle Lane’s chin and nose.

That evening after supper at the Clay’s, Bill and Kevin took Angie and I as promised to the village pub. I, an experienced beer drinker from my year in the dorm at college, had a beer on tap. At Kevin’s suggestion, Angie had a shandy, a mixture of beer and fruit juice. He and his dad quizzed us about how we knew each other, and we shared with them we were schoolmates, but became friends working together in our Youth Theater Unlimited group. It seemed like a kick to both of them that Angie and I had both been in a number of plays including singing and dancing on stage. I was so hoping that Angie’s comfort level with our whole adventure ahead was being increased by this much more friendly and domestic third day of our journey together.

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Two Inch Heels Part 1 – The Endeavor

Me as “Peabody” in The Flahooley Incident

[This is my latest August 2021 rewrite of this chapter]

It was Monday, September 2nd, 1973. Labor Day actually, though if I still had my “house boy” job at the Briarwood Hilton, I probably would have worked that day to get the time-and-a-half holiday pay. I was walking down the sidewalk on the north side of Wells across from Burns Park returning home from Angie’s house. Just turned September, it was still a summery Ann Arbor day, but now a breeze had come up out of the north with that first real fall chill in it.

“Impending doom” is probably too strong a phrase, but a sense of some dread engulfed me. For the past twelve straight years that first chill had meant that I would shortly, always grudgingly, be reporting back to school. That institution my parents and other adults of their cohort imagined would allow, me and MY cohort, to learn the skills to eventually take our place as successors to the civilization they were now responsible for. A civilization, from my point of view, whose history was a litany of wars, genocides, slavery, colonization, racial oppression and the subjugation of women.

That litany taken together was what my mom’s best friend Mary Jane called “patriarchy”. According to her, it was the 5000 year old pecking order by which the male elite had used violence, coercion, and “us and them” thinking to sort and control other “lesser” men, along with women and children and the rest of the world. She would often hold forth on the topic at my mom’s parties amongst all the male academics that were also friends of my mom’s. For added shock effect, she’d sometimes wear her maroon monk’s robe with the women’s symbol hanging from her neck, where the Christian cross would be in a more conventional male monastery dweller.

It was the organizing principle of our civilization, she would say, that perpetuated through the centuries from the warlike ancient empires we learned about in school to our contemporary world. It had reached a pinnacle of sorts, in our current century, in the Nazis and their cult of nordic supremacy and their industrialized genocide of Jews and other “lesser people”. The Nazis that my dad fought against in World War II.

But a cohort of younger people born during that war had taken up the cause and challenged that civilization. They were mythic figures to me and my radical wannabe friends. We heard about their words and their exploits, in the media or through the grapevine. Tom Hayden, Huey Newton, Abby Hoffman, Angela Davis and Bernadine Dohrn, to name a few. But no words were more inspiring to me in particular, than those sung by the great bards of that cohort, the likes of Bob Dylan, Paul Simon and the Beatles, among a cadre of others. You don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows, all you need is love, and Kodachrome.

But by the time I came of age, it all seemed to be playing out. The young people just a couple years older than I had been at risk of being drafted to fight in the Vietnam War, or resist and go to Canada or prison even. But that resistance, that common cause, had given them solidarity that my age cohort seemed to lack. Previously that summer I had written in my journal…

I missed the 1968 generation. I came too late. That’s when we were still all together moving in the right direction. Now the momentum is shattered. People are turning inward and cruising. But maybe because I’m not part of that “Vietnam” generation I’m not disillusioned. My time may still be to come.

I felt somehow too young, born too late, to have the bonafides to be an actual “hippie” radical, like my good friend Avi’s older brother or the characters in the movie “The Strawberry Statement”. It was like that boat had sailed and I would have to wait for whatever might come along next. Keep my powder dry.

But there was some sort of post-hippie thing emerging, as reflected in the popular music I was now gravitating to. They were calling it “glam”, and the young white guys that were singing it had the more femaleish long hair like the hippies but also costumes and stage personas that were more outlandishly androgynous. Bands like Alice Cooper, T-Rex and Mott the Hoople, and of course the high priest/priestess of the new genre, David Bowie.

It was Mott the Hoople’s song “All the Young Dudes”, written by Bowie, that sent goose pimples down my arms the first time I heard it last summer, and then every time since. Those words gave me hope that we young people still had a mission…

All the young dudes
Carry the news
Boogaloo dudes
Carry the news

Bowie’s lyrics in that song called out a moving beyond the perhaps more hippieish wisdom of the Beatles…

And my brother’s back at home
With his Beatles and his Stones
We never got if off on that revolution stuff
What a drag
Too many snags

And Bowie’s “news”, he had sung about in his previous song “Changes”, about a new generation, perhaps my generation, emerging to change the world…

And these children that you spit on
As they try to change their world
Are immune to your consultations
They’re quite aware of what they’re going through
Ch-ch-changes

Those “children” Bowie spoke of I figured were him and me and the rest of our g-g-generation trying to transform the world. And though we were technically biologically the progeny of the older generation, we saw ourselves as a new race of beings to inherit the planet from the more conventional human beings before us. As Bowie elaborated in another song, “Oh You Pretty Things”, from that same “Hunky Dory” album…

Look at your children
See their faces in golden rays
Don’t kid yourself they belong to you
They’re the start of a coming race
The earth is a bitch
We’ve finished our news
Homo Sapiens have outgrown their use
All the strangers came today
And it looks as though they’re here to stay

Pulling my ever tangenting mind back to the moment, even though I hadn’t shaken that feeling of dread in that first cold fall breeze, I had finally cut myself loose from the rigmarole of schooling. At least in this year ahead, my life would be completely of my own design. I was going to backpack through Western Europe with my friend Angie. And not just for a week of two, but for two or three fucking months. We’d fly to London, do the first week or so in England. Then on to the Continent; France, Germany, Netherlands, Spain, Italy, Austria, even Switzerland. We would stay, wherever possible, with people I already knew from our summer in England three years ago. The rest of the time we would stay in youth hostels. That was our plan at least. We had gotten our student identity cards and already bought two-month student rail passes to get around from city to city. It seemed pretty straight forward, at least in concept, though I had never been much of a planner.

Ironically, the trip had first been proposed by Angie’s best friend Lane, as a post high school adventure with her and Angie. I was off at college and had not been part of that original plan. I had met the two of them nearly three years ago when I worked on the lighting crew for my first Youth Theater Unlimited show, Peter Pan. They had both been in the chorus, part of Tiger Lily’s Indians. We had quickly become friends as the three of us continued to work in various capacities on YTU productions over those years.

Both of them were short and feisty, like Granny Clampett but younger. Angie was the stockier of the two with a cute round face with sparkling blue eyes and short curly blonde hair. Lane was more wiry, but with her own round face, rosy cheeks, and darker and wilier eyes. They were both smart and funny, and a natural comic duo, on stage and off. And underneath all their vim they were both really sweet souls, and even shy like me. How could I not have been endeared by and attracted to the two of them.

And I loved their friendship with each other, and felt totally comfortable being the third wheel, their male sidekick as it were. It was perfect for me, because I was generally more comfortable around women than men. My mom and dad had divorced when I was ten, and all through my teens the adults that I had spent the most time with were my mom and her cohort of feminist female friends. Add to that all the hours I had spent these past few years with my young theater comrades, again a preponderance of female types. I was completely comfortable being the only male type in a room full of interesting, even bad ass women. But in most all MALE assemblages, I was usually either bored or wary and on edge, that is except for my three best male friends, Avi, Jerry and Clark. I generally found adult women and my female peers more interesting, more mature, more sophisticated, and less full of themselves.

Well actually it eventually got more complicated between Lane, Angie and me for a while. One summer evening a year ago, when Angie was off somewhere on vacation with her family, I had been over at Lane’s house and we had been having a great time hanging out, just the two of us. The attraction between us had been percolating for a while, and given shy me, it was Lane who screwed up the courage to make the move. I was sprawled out on her couch and we were both laughing and singing along to the Beach Boys “I Get Around”, and she just climbed on top of me and gave me my first real romantic kiss on the mouth. It was wonderful, electric. But ugh, shy me, as so often happens, the first time for me for anything like that just freaks me out, and my natural urge was to chicken out and retreat. Which I did in this case, after the kiss, with Lane still perched on my stomach. I made some excuse, she backed off, I hopped on my bike and rode home. The three of us continued being friends, but Lane and I never really talked about that night, pretty much pretending it hadn’t happened. I don’t know if she shared our romantic encounter with Angie, but them being best friends, likely she did. I regretted that I didn’t let Lane lead us to wherever we might have been able to go that night. But oh well.

So after I had returned from my first year of college at Western in April, on my first occasion to hang out with them, they shared with me their plan. They were targeting flying to London in September and backpacking through Western Europe for two or three months. I could just imagine the two of them laughing and joking, mugging their way through London and Paris and Rome, plus the rest of the “old country”. It sounded so much more profound than what I had planned, which was subjecting myself to yet another year of school.

I had been figuring I would return to Western Michigan University for my second year, path of least resistance really, but I was ambivalent. Thirteen straight years of school and I was definitely ready “for something completely different” as Monty Python would say, introducing the next sketch on their TV show.

I thought Lane and Angie’s plan was a great idea and could not hold back chiming in that I’d love to come along. It was Lane who immediately said sure, yes, that would be great, and suddenly I had a way more compelling new plan for the fall. Of course, given our relationship and our combined shyness, it would have been hard for them to say no, if they had wanted to. I wasn’t really sensitive to that dynamic at that point, I just LOVED the idea and SO wanted to share in the endeavor.

So I told my mom that night and she immediately said it was a great idea, and that she was excited for me. She had always said that travel, particularly travel “abroad” as she called it, was crucial to a young person’s development. She said that I would have to get a job over the summer to finance it, but she would chip in a couple hundred bucks for my plane ticket and see if my dad would do so as well. Luckily I had found a job right away, such as it was, making minimum wage as a “houseboy” at the Briarwood Hilton, helping guests with their luggage, doing janitorial work, and cleaning guest rooms.

Lane, Angie and I had been involved over the summer in the YTU production of The Flahooley Incident. Rehearsals were pretty much every weekday evening, plus Saturday afternoons and some Sundays as well. So we saw each other pretty much every day. When the three of us were not in the current scene being rehearsed, we would hole up in a far corner of the house of Lydia Mendelssohn theater, pull out our Western Europe map, and discuss our proposed trip.

It was the week of tech and dress rehearsals for the show, some two months before our planned departure date, that Lane told Angie and I that she was not going to be able to go to Europe after all. There were issues with the family printing business, a key longtime employee had just given, unexpectedly, their two-week notice. Lane felt she had to help her mom and fill in doing typesetting and layout work. Angie and I were both bummed out, thinking it meant the end of the endeavor. But Lane insisted that the two of us should continue without her. I was game, but Angie was more tentative. But Lane did not want to be responsible for torpedoing the trip, and did her consummate actor best line reading, to convince her friend to go on without her. Angie finally agreed that she and I should continue the proposed trip.

Of course the dynamic had now changed from two best female friends with their male companion tagging along, to a male female pairing. A pairing with the two of us just friends, not a romantic couple. And Angie and I weren’t really close friends, like she and Lane were. I mean we’d been to each other’s houses and certainly logged several hundred hours together in YTU rehearsals or set construction sessions over the past three years. But we hadn’t spent long evenings together sharing our life’s triumphs and tragedies with each other. We were more “comrades”, with a strong working relationship as peers. I figured that bond ought to be leverageable, be enough for this adventure.

Many of my friends were female peers in school or my theater group, but I had never had what I would consider an actual romantic relationship of any significance. The thing with Lane could probably have become one, if I hadn’t bailed. And Christine had been my girlfriend of sorts during the first couple months of my junior year of high school, though we had never really kissed each other, let alone done anything beyond that in the “making out” department.

Longing for a romantic relationship, and with Lane now interested in another older guy, Angie was coming on my romantic radar given our shared plan together. I felt that type of relationship was the one key thing missing from my life, and I imagined that it would be very fulfilling, and cure a lot of the anxiety I felt about myself and life in general. I knew I had a real hangup in this area. Since my brief thing with Lane, I had had several other episodes with a handful of very cool young women interested in me, even hitting on me, but I had always managed to get cold feet. But with Angie and I sharing this journey through Europe together, we would get closer, and maybe there would be a romantic spark somehow, and maybe I would finally let that something happen and play out.

In terms of embarking on such an extensive travel adventure, I’m not sure I really knew what I was getting myself in for. But I did have previous experience, three years earlier, spending the summer in England with my mom and brother, plus a week-long Russian Club trip to the Soviet Union a year after that. Prior to that the adventures of long family car trips back east, or the ad hoc day trips with my brother and dad. So I felt comfortable with the whole travel thing and the logistics involved, and I felt I would not be intimidated by being in other countries where I did not speak the language.

So Angie and I finally crossed that threshold of committing significant financial resources to the endeavor. $570 each for roundtrip tickets on BOAC from Detroit to London, with the return date open ended. $150 each for two-month European student rail passes. I stuffed a check for $179 in the envelope with my order of camping equipment from the REI co-op in Washington state. When the big boxes from REI arrived in the UPS truck, then it really felt like we were actually going to do this.

At my mom’s suggestion and with notes that she had kept from our time in England three years previous, I sent letters to several of the people we had gotten to know when we had been there. The Clay family that had lived next door to us in Horspath village outside of Oxford. The young German couple, Angelica and Helmut, and the very charismatic and charming Englishman named Sebastian, all whom we had met as tourists during our travels in England. The Cane’s, who we had traded houses with but never actually met. Also a French couple, Giselle and Paul, my mom had met on a subsequent trip to Switzerland. Having cobbled together a rough itinerary with Angie, I gave all these people dates of when I would likely be where they lived, and they all replied that they would love to see Angie and me, and offer us lodging.

In terms of my own life plans beyond our trip, I had discussed with my theater group mentor Robert the possibility of joining him and other of my YTU companions in Reno in maybe January or February, which is where they were headed in the fall, to pursue more opportunities in theater, movies and television. But nagging me in that regard was a sense that my abilities in the acting and performing department were not quite up to the same levels as some of my comrades who I felt were way more talented.

What I was focused on, maybe even obsessed with right now, was to come back from Europe transformed somehow. I imagined myself returning with my long bushy hair, plus perhaps an added mustache, beard and sideburns, facial hair which as of yet I could not grow. And perhaps with an actual girlfriend and even having lost my virginity. I wanted everyone to look at me in awe, all grown up. And then maybe I would feel better about myself, and take this transformed self and leverage it to get into making movies somehow. “The big screen” was drawing me now, more than work on the stage.

Having inherited the packing gene from my mom and dad, I also obsessed about what to bring in the limited space of my sparkling new Kelty backpack. It had a red nylon bag hung on an aluminum frame with two main sections, one easily accessible by opening a top flap and the other less accessible by a zipper lower down across the back. Two small zippered pockets extended from either side. Below the bag was space on the frame to secure my new down sleeping bag, squished down and stuffed into its blue nylon sack.

I figured those four side pockets would hold the stuff I needed quick access to without removing my pack. I experimented with hoisting the thing to my back and reaching for, unzipping and rezipping each of those four pockets. My two new plastic water bottles fit nicely side by side in one. A second would hold my orange nylon rain poncho. A third, my new chunky flashlight and an extra set of four size AA batteries. And the fourth, everything else I might need access to with my pack still on. A compass, Europe map, and of course a brand gleaming new red Swiss Army knife with a shitload of different stuff in it, including even a plastic toothpick and tiny metal tweezers.

The bottom section would fit my new lightweight orange down jacket in ITS little stuff bag, light windbreaker, gloves and knit cap, and nylon tube tent in case we had to spend a night out in the rain. Also minimal toiletries, including one medium sized towel and a reclosable plastic bag with toothbrush, toothpaste, bar of soap in a plastic soap box, tube of Prell shampoo, and a plastic hair pick. Best keep the towel and all that other stuff that might need to be carried wet down there below the rest of the pack contents. Also my new metal knife, spoon and fork combo set and a small first-aid kit.

That left the top section for clothing and any food or other stuff I might pick up and carry along the way. Experimenting with that space, I determined that I could carry basically two complete changes of clothes in the pack. That meant, including the clothes I was wearing, I would bring just three collared shirts, three t-shirts, three pairs of pants, and a corresponding three pairs of underwear.

The pants were easy choices, two pairs of bell bottom jeans and my nice flared gray corduroy slacks for more dressing up. But the collared and t-shirts were more of a challenge, and after much back and forth, I finally settled on my choices. My light blue heavy cotton workshirt. The flannel shirt my mom bought me because it was a “Campbell” tartan, the family name she had given me as a middle name. Finally a dressier paisley shirt that I would wear with my corduroy slacks.

As for t-shirts, I definitely wanted my red “Rutgers People’s Electric Law School” tee that my YTU comrade Richard, who I taught how to design and set stage lights, got me. I had never been to Rutgers or even knew exactly where it was back East, but I resonated with the “People’s Electric” part. I felt it made me look like a radical when I wore it. Then I figured I would bring one of my Michigan t-shirts, this one the classic dark blue shirt with those deep yellow or “maize” letters. Finally an ordinary white t-shirt.

Last of all shoes were problematic, being heavy and bulky. I figured I was going to wear my new hiking boots most of the time. I’d bring one pair of white cotton and another pair of gray wool socks to wear under them. But I also decided to pack my two-inch heels, my dressiest shoes, for any occasion on our trip when I might want to look a little more dressed up, and a pair of black dress socks to go with them.

I had screwed up my courage while away at Western, to buy, and on occasion wear, that pair of flashy two-tone brown suede shoes with two-inch platform heels, which I had seen other guys wear, and looked particularly good in my bell-bottom jeans and other flared slacks, my little touch of “glam”. The curly haired “natural”, that I had ratted and teased up to top my character’s head in The Flahooley Incident, I had decided to keep after the show finished. At 6’, 6’2” in my heels, and adding an extra inch or two for my hair depending on the weather conditions, I had a tall and lanky strut, with a mane of brown curls bobbing to the beat. Inside this new avatar I was still shy, even painfully so in the romantic and sexual department, but it was nice to cruise and strut at times like I wasn’t.

My pack at least, was ready.

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Coopster Created Part 11 – Mister Jim

It was a cold, gray, windy Monday on the planet Ann Arbor. Monday February 11th 1974 to be exact. Though now that I was no longer soldiering through Europe with my pack on my back, I wasn’t keeping a journal and writing down the dates. Overnight, the blowing snow had covered the outside of my one small basement window, the one I could see from my mattress on the floor. I had been out earlier in the cold wind shoveling the snow away from the window, and the rest of the driveway, per the list of chores my mom had left me, that I was determined not to get behind on and risk getting a negative comment from her.

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Coopster Created Part 10 – Long Drive Home

It was Sunday December 23 and dad, David and I sat in a booth at dad’s local favorite Xenia coffee shop that served breakfast fast food style. Instead of having someone wait on your table, you bought your food at the counter like you would at McDonalds and took it back to your table. That way no need to tip, which dad always tried to avoid. That morning’s conversation was mostly about football, including Miami of Ohio’s upset victory over Florida in the Tangerine bowl Friday night, plus yesterday’s pro football playoff games. We distracted and medicated ourselves with vicarious game highlights, instead of acknowledging the sadness that our long weekend together was ending, and we had the long four-hour drive back to Ann Arbor ahead. Dad’s drive that day would actually be eight hours, since he had to turn around and drive the four hours back down to Xenia alone. At least he would have the playoff game between the Dolphins and his local favorite Cincinnati Bengals to listen to on the radio.

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Coopster Created Part 9 – Dr Z

It was Thursday morning December 20, just eleven days left in a very eventful year, and just some 100 days left until my nineteenth birthday. The thought of turning nineteen in April felt strange to me. All my teen years I had felt like an eighteen-year-old in waiting. That milestone was pretty much the age of majority, gaining one the right to vote, to drink, to smoke tobacco (if I cared to which I didn’t), plus the adult possibility of being drafted, and whatever decision I would have to make if that happened. But having achieved that iconic Alice Cooper “I’m Eighteen” thing, I really had no similar desire to get any older than that.

There was that iconic statement from a young activist, “Don’t trust anyone over thirty!”, that was often repeated by those above or below that age. I couldn’t tell you who said it, but it was really very provocative for people on either side of that divide. I had no desire to get that old, and somehow lose some real or imagined revolutionary cred. I had lived in that zeitgeist of almost, and then actually eighteen, for years now. Comfortably so apparently, and the thought of turning nineteen somehow felt like the clock would start ticking, and before I knew it I’d be thirty. Weird!

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Coopster Created Part 8 – Barracuda

It was Wednesday December 19, and my radio, coaxed me to a waking state, tuned to the rock station WABX. I heard yet again the title song from Bowie’s new album Aladdin Sane, the lyrics of the song’s chorus intrigued the Coopster in me…

Who’ll love Aladdin Sane
Battle cries and champagne just in time for sunrise
Who’ll love Aladdin Sane

“Aladdin Sane” sounded exactly like “a lad insane”, and I was sure that double meaning was intentional on Bowie’s part. Who would care about a young person with crazy, outside the box ideas? But what if that young person was in fact a wizard with magical powers. Might that provide a method to their madness? I had often been afraid to express some of the innate wildness inside me for fear people would ridicule me, see me as “a lad insane” as it were. Perhaps I needed more faith in my outside the box thinking!

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Coopster Created Part 7 – Rehearsal

The Rodgers and Hammerstein musical version of the Cinderella story was the current production of YTU, in rehearsal for a January curtain. It was the first time since I met Angie and Lane three years ago that none of the three of us were in one of our theater company’s big musical productions. We were like alumnae now, moved on to other venues to pursue our continuing interests in theater. And with the departure of Robert this past fall, the theater company’s founder, and the recent untimely death of its musical director Tara, our youth theater group had acquired new adult leadership. YTU was now affiliated with the new Community High School, and CHS teachers Steve and Betsy, were playing the Robert and Tara roles. Beyond these two new adult overlords, most of the youth currently in the company were our friends and comrades.

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Coopster Created Part 6 – Angie & Lane

It was Saturday, December 15, and I awoke from my second night in my basement “lair”, as my mom was now jokingly calling it. My clock-radio had been tuned to the Rock radio station WABX last night and the music popped on. As I was wrestling myself into consciousness I heard that great lyric from the “Karn Evil 9” song on the new Emerson, Lake and Palmer album…

Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends
We’re so glad you could attend, come inside, come inside

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